Bhutan & the Gentle Himalaya

The approach into Paro Airport is one of the most remarkable landings in aviation. The aircraft threads between Himalayan peaks at 7,000 feet; the valley appears suddenly — green, narrow, terraced with rice fields, a fortress on the hillside. Only eight pilots in the world are certified to fly this approach. Your Bhutanese guide and driver meet you at arrivals. The road to Thimphu crosses the Paro Chhu river and winds through farmland and forest. Check in to your lodge. The first evening in Bhutan is quiet, cool, and otherworldly.

Thimphu is perhaps the only capital city on earth with no traffic lights — a police officer directs traffic from a white-gloved booth in the main junction. Your guide takes you through Tashichho Dzong — the seat of Bhutan's government and the summer throne of the Je Khenpo (the Chief Abbot) — a fortress-monastery of white-washed walls and golden roofs. The Traditional Medicine Institute (one of the country's most distinctive institutions), the National Folk Heritage Museum, and the giant Buddha Dordenma statue overlooking the valley. Evening: a local restaurant in central Thimphu.

The National Memorial Chorten in Thimphu is a daily gathering point for elderly Bhutanese who circumambulate the stupa with prayer wheels and devotion. A genuinely moving scene and a different kind of sightseeing. Craft workshops in the old part of town: thangka painting, weaving, woodcarving, and the production of traditional Bhutanese textiles. The Folk Heritage Museum for daily life objects and reconstructed farmhouse. Afternoon: the Takin Preserve — the national animal of Bhutan, a creature so unusual it was long believed to be a myth.

The drive from Thimphu to Punakha crosses the Dochula Pass at 3,100 metres. On a clear morning — and many mornings here are clear — the pass offers a panoramic view of some of the highest peaks of the eastern Himalayas: Masagang, Tsendagang, Teri Gangphu, and others. The 108 chortens built by the Queen Mother dot the pass. Descend into the Punakha valley: warmer, lower, lush with orange and banana trees. Check in to your riverside lodge.

Punakha Dzong — the Palace of Great Happiness — sits at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers (male and female rivers). Built in 1637, it served as the administrative and religious centre of Bhutan for three centuries. It is breathtaking. Your guide walks you through the courtyards, the giant Bodhi tree, the painted interiors, and the history of the dzong's survival through floods, fires, and earthquakes. The walk across the cantilever bridge above the rushing rivers is part of the experience. Afternoon at leisure in the valley.

A 45-minute walk across rice paddies and farmland to Chimi Lhakhang — the temple of the Divine Madman, Drukpa Kunley, renowned for unconventional and often irreverent teachings that remain deeply beloved in Bhutan. The temple is a pilgrimage site for couples seeking children and a fascinating intersection of Buddhist devotion and folk tradition. Afternoon: optional rafting on the Mo Chhu river (seasonal) or a longer walk into the Punakha valley villages. The valley is one of Bhutan's most beautiful and productive agricultural areas.

Return drive to Paro, crossing Dochula again. A different light, a different view. Check in to your Paro lodge — typically among the finest properties in Bhutan. Afternoon at leisure in the valley: the Paro town centre (Bhutan's most visited but still authentic), the National Museum of Bhutan (housed in a 17th-century watchtower above the Paro Dzong), and the Ta Dzong. Evening: a traditional hot stone bath at your lodge — river stones heated in fire, lowered into a wooden tub, mineral-rich and deeply relaxing.

The hike to Paro Taktsang — the Tiger's Nest — is the defining experience of any Bhutan journey. The monastery clings to a cliff face 3,000 feet above the valley floor. Guru Rinpoche is said to have flown here on the back of a tigress and meditated in the cave for three months in the 8th century. The hike takes 2–3 hours up; the monastery, once reached, is extraordinary: four temples built into the rock face, connected by wooden bridges and steep stone passages, with views back across the Paro valley. The return is quieter.

A choice of pace. For active guests: a different hike — to Kyichu Lhakhang (one of Bhutan's oldest and most sacred temples, believed to date from the 7th century) or a longer ridge walk above the valley. For guests preferring a slower final day: a morning at the Paro Dzong, the town market, and a craft workshop visit. Farewell dinner at your lodge — Bhutanese cuisine of red rice, ema datshi (the national dish of chillies and cheese), and buckwheat pancakes.

The most dramatic departure in travel. Your vehicle takes you back to the airport through the valley — the terraced fields, the dzong, the mountains. The aircraft threads out through the peaks. Bhutan disappears below. Your concierge has ensured seamless check-in. The journey continues — or, for some guests, this is the moment when they begin planning their return.

We recommend booking at least 3–4 months in advance for peak season travel (October–March). For off-peak travel, 6–8 weeks is generally sufficient. Bespoke itineraries need a minimum 8 weeks for full confirmation.